ModernlyVintage

Modern Creations, Vintage Techniques

Category: Tutorials

Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Cables are a great way to add interest to a knitted piece. Easy to knit, they stand out, popping off the fabric. And they pop out even more when there is more than one color involved.

While it might look like it’s a difficult technique, knitting a two color cable is just as easy as knitting a single colored cable. The result is quite striking. (If you have never knit cables, you should try it. It is far easier than it looks.)

The pattern I am using for this tutorial is the Simple Cabled Coffee Cozy, by Stacy Musch. This is a free pattern available on Ravelry.

*Disclaimer: Amazon Associate Affiliate Links are in use in this tutorial. Click here to read my complete Affiliate Disclaimer.

Objective

This tutorial breaks down the two color cable technique so that you can use it on any cable pattern, including the free pattern used in this tutorial, the Simple Cabled Coffee Cozy, by Stacy Musch.

Supplies Needed

  • Two different colors of yarn that are the same weight
  • Size 7 knitting needles, or the appropriate size needle for your yarn weight *gauge is not really important
  • Cable Needle

My Supplies

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables Supplies

My supplies

Here is what I’m using for this tutorial:

Tutorial

Following the Simple Cabled Coffee Cozy pattern, cast on half of the stitches in one color (color A), and then switch to the next color (color B) and cast on the remaining number of stitches.

In this instance, I cast on 8 stitches in Fantasy (color A), and 8 stitches in Antique Cream (color B), for a total of 16 stitches on my needles.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables First Row

8 stitches in color A, and 8 stitches in color B. Image shown includes row 1 (k 16).

When you are using two colors in a pattern, you want to divide your pattern in half, one half for each color. So, Knit 16 becomes knit 8 in color A, knit 8 in color B (reference above photo for example).

No matter where you are in the pattern, you want to make sure that the yarn color that you are knitting with matches the stitches that you are working into. Go slow and take care to make sure you are not knitting color A into color B’s stitches.

To switch colors, just drop the yarn from color A, pick up the yarn for color B, and continue knitting in pattern.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Row 4. Working yarn is the same color as the working stitches.

With the pattern used in this tutorial, the first 4 rows are not attached, and can slide apart on the cable. This will change as the cable is worked.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Pattern slides apart for first 4 rows. This will change on row 5, when the cable is worked.

As you come to the cable, continue to knit,  keeping the yarn color the same, corresponding to the color of the stitches that you are knitting into.

At various points in the pattern, this will cause you to carry your yarn color across your work to get to the stitches that match your working yarn. Make sure you are always carrying the color across on the wrong side of the fabric.

Important Tip! On wrong side purl rows, keep your yarn in front of your work so that it’s easy to pickup the color and carry it across as needed.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Always carry colors on the wrong side of the pattern.

When you get to the cable, continue to knit using the appropriate color working yarn with the matching colored working stitches.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Cable in progress. Follow pattern, using the correct color working yarn for the stitches you are knitting into.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

Cable finished.

Continue following the pattern, always using the corresponding colored yarn that matches the color of the stitches that you are knitting into. That’s the hardest part of knitting two color cables.

Continue to knit following the pattern, and sit back, and watch with amazement as your work grows into a beautiful, two colored cable piece.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

After the first 8 rows of the pattern.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

After a few pattern repeats.

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

After several pattern repeats. (And yes, there are a few mistakes in this piece, the edges should be all garter stitch. Oops!)

ModernlyVintage.com Knitting Tutorial: How to Knit Two Color Cables

The back of the finished piece to show how the yarn is carried over top of stitches throughout the piece.

When you get to the end of the pattern, cast off as you normally would, continuing to match the working yarn color with the working stitch color.

And that’s it. As mentioned the two hardest parts of knitting with two colors (which isn’t hard at all) is making sure that you start with half your pattern in color A, and half your pattern in color B, and making sure you are using the correct colored yarn for the stitches you are working into.

If you make a two colored cable from this tutorial, I would love to see your results. Feel free to share your work with me on my Facebook Page, Facebook.com/ModernlyVintageCraft.

Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch Necklace Tutorial

My latest craft obsession? Macrame! Specifically, adjustable stone macrame pouches, which are simply macrame pouches that you can open, and change out the contents.

I’ve been wanting one of these as a necklace for wearing crystals. Had I known they were so easy to make, I would have made them a lot sooner.

While I made many different versions during my learning phase (such as the image with the sparkly teal bead and white thread), there were only really 2 that actually were put to use.

Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch for my car

One I made to hang crystals in the car. It was one of the first few pouches I attempted. It’s not perfect, but it works well for the car.

Work In Progress

ModernlyVintage.com Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch Necklace for my car

Finished and hanging in my car

ModernlyVintage.com Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch Necklace for my car

 Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch Necklace

After a few more attempts I was able to make this — an adjustable macrame pouch necklace, with sliding adjustable knots, so that I can easily change the length of the necklace.

Adjustable Stone Macrame Pouch Necklace

Want to make your own adjustable stone macrame pouch necklaces?

Do you want to try your hand at these neat, versatile adjustable macrame pouches? Here are the tutorials I used. Believe it or not, braiding the necklace cord was the longest part of the entire process.

***EDIT 1-26-15: These ARE NOT my tutorials, but the tutorials I used, which I thought I would share with you. If you have questions for the authors of the tutorials, please contact them directly through their pages. Thanks!***

Youtube Tutorial for Macrame Tutorial – Interchangeable / Swap Stone Necklace

Instructables Tutorial Macrame Interchangeable Stone Necklace

Instructables Interchangable Stone Macrame Necklace

 

Non Slip Loop for an Adjustable Necklace

non-slip-loop-knot

These are so easy to make, I definitely have plans to make more.

I hope you have fun making your own adjustable stone macrame pouch necklaces. If you do, pop over to my Facebook page and share an image of your necklace. I would love to see what you came up with.

Shuttle Comparison: Clover vs. Susan Bates Tatting Shuttles

Susan Bates and Clover Shuttles

Susan Bates and Clover Shuttles

As a shuttle tatter, shuttles are a necessity when it comes to creating beautiful tatted lace. However, not all shuttles are created equal, and each type has their differences, quirks, pros and cons.

This article reviews two types of shuttles commonly found at retail craft stores, and aims to help new tatters understand the difference between these two styles of shuttles.

Clover Shuttles

The first shuttles I used were Clover shuttles because they were the only shuttles I could find when I went looking for them at the craft store. After searching at Joann’s for a bit, I found them in the crochet section, wedged up under the crochet and needle felting accessories. There they were, hanging on one lone peg. (So if you’re searching at your local Joann’s, don’t give up. They are usually in the crochet accessory section somewhere.)

Clover Shuttles

Clover Shuttles

Made of plastic, Clover shuttles come in two packs, and sport a variety of fun colors. There is a ridged thumb grip in the center which is actually quite comfortable.

Clover shuttles feature a post in the middle of the shuttle which has a hole in it. To attach the thread to the shuttle, run the thread through this hole. You can either tie it to the post with a simple knot, or pull enough thread out to hold onto the end while you wind (my preferred method).

To thread a Clover shuttle you wind the thread around the shuttle. As you do, the shuttle will click each time the thread passes through the ends. Once you get used to it, the click-click, click-click of winding a shuttle is actually very soothing.

Additionally, Clover shuttles have a long pointed end, which can help with joining rings and chains together. You will want to have a small crochet hook on hand to help you with joins though, because sometimes the pick just doesn’t work for pulling thread through. (I was fairly good at joining with the pick, until I got my Susan Bates shuttle, and then I just got lazy. So now I use a crochet hook whenever I use my Clover shuttles.)

Pros:

  • Readily available; can be picked up at most craft stores (even if they are difficult to find).
  • They are durable, and come in two packs.
  • If you drop your shuttle, the whole thing does not unwind.
  • The pick is super helpful for picking apart stiches / fixing mistakes.

Cons:

  • Winding thread is noisy, because of the tapered ends of the shuttle.
  • Not having a hook means you need more tools with you when you want to tat.
  • The pick will wear down over time, making it more difficult to join / pick apart stitches.

Conclusion: Clover shuttles are a great basic / beginner’s shuttle, particularly because you can (usually) pick them up at your local craft store.

Susan Bates Bobbin Shuttle

The Susan Bates, bobbin style shuttle is completely different from the Clover shuttle. Pretty much the first thing you’ll probably notice is the hook at the end, followed by the shape of the shuttle. It looks like a little arrow, or dart, or something.

I found one of these at Hobby Lobby, which btw has the largest tatting section I have ever seen at a craft store. They had an entire row of tatting supplies, not just one little peg in the crochet section. But I digress.

Susan Bates Bobbin Shuttle

Susan Bates Bobbin Shuttle

This type of shuttle is a bobbin style shuttle, which means it has a round bobbin (similar to a sewing machine) that you wind the thread around. Just poke the end of the thread through the small hole at the base of the bobbin, and wind away. These types of shuttles wind pretty easily, and more importantly silently.

Figuring out how to remove the bobbin is only slightly confusing. There are no directions on the packaging, and I remember wondering if I popped the bobbin out or just tried to wind it with the bobbin in place. In the end it surprised me the amount of force I had to use to remove the bobbin. So, don’t be surprised if you really have to work to get the bobbin out of the shuttle. Don’t worry, you won’t break it. I haven’t broken mine yet, and I’m pretty forceful with it.

The beauty of this shuttle is of course the hook, it makes joining a breeze. A more inclusive tool means fewer items are needed when you want to tat. Additionally, you can easily wind and unwind the bobbin as needed, without a lot of manual effort. This shuttle also tends to hold considerably more thread than its Clover counterpart because of the bobbin.

However, there are no grips on this shuttle, which means you may drop it more (I drop mine all the time). The downfall to dropping your shuttle is that it easily unfurls long lengths of thread, because there is nothing to stop it from unwinding. Additionally, this shuttle unwinds almost without effort, so you may find yourself winding it up more frequently than the Clover shuttles.

Pros:

  • Winding is super quiet because of the bobbin.
  • The attached hook is helpful.
  • Holds more thread than the Clover shuttle.

Cons:

  • Unwinds very easily, which is annoying when the shuttle is dropped.
  • The hook sometimes catches on the thread while stitches are being made.
  • The hook makes it difficult to pick apart mistakes.
  • Slips easily; not particularly great for beginning tatters.

Conclusion: Overall this is a good tool, once you get the hang of it, but is probably not the best tool for beginners. This would be my favorite shuttle, if it didn’t unwind so easily.

Of course, Clover and Susan Bates shuttles aren’t the only types of shuttles out there. There are many different kinds and styles of shuttles; however most aren’t as easily available as these two brands. Hopefully this article shed some light on the differences between these common shuttles, to help educate new tatters when it comes to picking out shuttles.

Do you have a favorite brand of shuttle, maybe one of the two listed here or another brand? Leave me a comment letting me know what you like to tat with.

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